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Quaglinos, London SW1 restaurant review

The new Quags is tricked out like a Busby Berkeley set and the foods retro, too

Create your new Quaglinos legend, the website says, portentously. My own legend was that I once tumbled down its famous staircase and landed at the bottom with drink still intact. But that was back in the day when both Quaglinos and I were considerably more fashionable than weve been recently.

Lunch at Quags, sweetie, cooed Patsy and Edina, crystallising its status as a 90s London icon. But its conspicuous consumption always seemed more emblematic of the decade that came before: an unlikely arrival to land in Mayfair six years after Black Monday made even the most egregious swiggers of Bolly draw in their horns. But land it did, in a welter of celebrity and the more rackety branch of royalty, its name borrowed from an equally star-studded hotspot of yesteryear, a labour of obsessive love by Sir Terence Conran, whose every touch at the time created magic.

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