I’m furious. In an almost empty restaurant, I’m being kettled into my inevitably worst seat. Why can’t I have one of the lovely, large tables for two by the windows? The maître d’ is immovable: “Madam, they are booked in advance.” What, all of them? “All of them, madam. Often by the same people, every day.” My arse they are, I mutter, but there’s nothing for it but to follow him meekly to a tiny two-top at the back. As mollifier, I’m offered a nice copy of the Telegraph.
The Goring doesn’t pretend to take much interest in what happens in the outside world. Just off Victoria’s hectic, polluted drag, it gives a sense of out-of-time, Edwardian serenity, perfect for visiting Americans who reckon England is a giant Downton. They go to great lengths to preserve an atmosphere of unchanging luxury and, of course, it’s nice and handy for Buck House. Which is why I’m astonished they have a new chef and new menu. The very idea! Previous incumbent Derek Quelch – now there’s a wonderfully Downton name – has left after 15 years and new chef Shay Cooper is making seismic inroads into the old dowager, turning its antedeluvian menu into something startling and new.
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