Nobody goes into this gig for the popularity – I get that – but I do always try to be fair. So, after my ill-fated visit to Liverpool a few weeks ago, and as part of my continuing mea culpa to the city, I go back determined to find something new and noteworthy in its restaurant scene to praise. And that, according to local wisdom, would appear to be Mowgli.
Bold Street has become quite the foodie destination, and this latest arrival comes from Nisha Katona, a beautiful, charismatic and persuasive barrister-cum-Indian cookery teacher who calls herself a “curry evangelist”. Her place looks great, too: birdcage lights, ships’ rope, wooden seating, a bar made from railway sleepers; it’s a defiant and fun departure from Indian restaurant cliches. Presentation is all tiffin boxes and tiny milk bottles, and the theme is street food. Wall-hung rolls of brown craft paper announce menus, both food and creative cocktails from the chaps responsible for the city’s Jenny’s Bar and Berry & Rye. So, boxes ticked all round.
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