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Silo, Brighton – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin

‘If I’d eaten the whole Jerusalem artichoke starter, I could have probably hover-propelled myself home. There’s eco for you’

You won’t see any bins at Silo, but you will spot many a curiosity. The vast piece of steel kit in the lobby is the kind of thing in which a Soprano might stash a couple of bodies. A display of glistening pastries, made from home-milled flour, raw sugar and butter cultured in-house, also features “yesterday’s bread”. This, and the huge recycler-composter – that metal behemoth – hint at Silo’s unusual mission.

This rugged building on the fringes of Brighton’s North Laine purports to be the UK’s first zero-waste restaurant. You can’t miss it: dramatic inside and out, all concrete and brick and metal, it’s a million miles from Brighton’s occasionally girlie, retro aesthetic. And, despite arse-challenging seating made from pulped wood waste, it’s packed: boisterous parties, earnest computer-starers, breastfeeding mothers. I already love the place, if only because it would give Nigel Farage a violent dose of the vapours.

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