‘Everything we eat is eye-opening, enlivening, as bracing as a dip in the loch’
The drive to this unusual restaurant, open only a few weeks, is enough to make this Scottish exile weep into her hip flask. The sweeping handsomeness of the crags, furred with pines; the road that winds around glittering pewter loch after loch. Dorothy, we’re not in Hyndland any more.
Strachur, a village clinging to the banks of Loch Fyne, is the address. But on we travel, past the village, the road punctuated only by the occasional tiny, whitewashed chapel or lonely cottage. (I’m ignoring the one with the “Boden Party Here Today” sign outside, because that’s puncturing my romantic Caledonian reverie.) This is where a duo schooled at De Superette in Ghent, Belgium, and with stints at Noma and Fäviken, have decided to open their first restaurant. Are they quite mad?
Continue reading...