‘Is Hardeep Singh Kohli’s restaurant venture a “new and exciting iteration of Indian food”, as the website claims? Maybe, but it is done with real affection and energy’
Celebrities love opening restaurants, from Robert De Niro, Eva Longoria and Justin Timberlake in the US to our more prosaic slebs: Ant and Dec (High Road Brasserie in Chiswick), Dermot O’Leary’s Fishy Fishy in Brighton, and Rio Ferdinand’s Rosso in Manchester. Perhaps it’s something to do with the restaurant biz being as much about performance as showbiz is.
Some are smashes (De Niro’s Nobu empire), some not so much (paging Gregg Wallace). My personal favourite, sadly never experienced, was Buster Bloodvessel’s Fatty Towers in Margate for, um, the fuller-figured, offering “lard arse pudding” and “guided waddles”.
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