Duck & Rice: restaurant review

High prices and a peppercorn overload that makes your lips vibrate should be a deterrent. But Duck & Rice is a gem

90 Berwick Street, London W1 (020 3327 7888). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £110

For a moment I didn’t want to step inside Alan Yau’s new “Chinese gastropub”. I wanted to treat it like that beautiful girl I had the hots for in my first year at university. I just wanted to stand and stare. I didn’t want to ruin the illusion of unquestioned beauty by attempting to get involved.