A piece in yesterday’s Observer by Peter Preston, a former editor of the Guardian, noted that various restaurant critics – namely AA Gill of the Sunday Times, Giles Coren of the Times, Marina O’Loughlin of this paper, and Jay Rayner of the Observer, had all disagreed profoundly with each other about the same restaurants – and in a couple of cases, the same dish at the same restaurant. He concluded that “restaurant reviewing has … become a series of elegant essays too frail to chomp. It’s a style, a prevalent entertainment: but also not much of an answer to the most basic question of the lot: … was the blinking mousse set, or not?”
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