From Shore to Shore review – drama while you dine at a Chinese restaurant
Yang Sing restaurant, ManchesterThis rich, dreamlike play feeds body and soul as it chronicles the complex lives of migrants from ChinaCheung Wing is looking back over his life. He’s been through tough...
View ArticleAuthentic, natural, artisan … mind your language when talking about food
After the fuss about Gordon Ramsay’s Asian restaurant, there’s an easy way to avoid controversy over authenticity. Be deliciousA few weeks ago, Gordon Ramsay received championship levels of eye-rolling...
View ArticleThe end of small plates: why the dinner-ruining dishes may finally be over
The trend for small-plate menus in restaurants has tested friendships and defied logic. They have to go – here’s whyThe news that Russell Norman’s Polpo restaurant group is in financial trouble (unpaid...
View ArticleVivi, W1: ‘Gargantuan, gorgeous, sterile’ - restaurant review | Grace Dent
Well-presented, old-fashioned, but overpriced pub grub for the casually opulentRestaurant land is in a tangential state. Dozens of new openings have been cancelled, heavily delayed, hazily scheduled...
View ArticlePatisserie Valerie accounts black hole now £94m, says KPMG
Administrators for cafe chain revise deficit as ‘potential fraud’ investigations continueThe black hole in the accounts of the troubled cafe chain Patisserie Valerie was as much as £94m, more than...
View ArticleTrump supporters find new appreciation for safe spaces
New app helps people who feel they are the victims of anti-Maga sentiment to find restaurants they feel comfortable inLast week, a man named Dion Cini was refused service at a bar in New York City. He...
View ArticlePompette, Oxford: ‘Worth saving up for’ – restaurant review
Oxford’s chattering classes should flock here to eat fine classic French dishes. And chat…Pompette, 7 South Parade, Oxford OX2 7JL (01865 311166). Snacks, starters, charcuterie and cheeses £4.50-£14....
View ArticleJay Rayner: my 20 years as a restaurant critic
Jay Rayner marks two decades as the Observer’s restaurant critic and explains why food writing is about more than what’s on the plateI am the accidental restaurant critic. It was never my plan, because...
View Article‘It’s like a family’: the restaurant staff who stay in the same job for decades
As a photographic project highlights long service in London’s restaurant trade, six stalwarts tell us why they’ve stayed put for all these years“Very seldom are we who work in the catering industry...
View ArticleLudicrous, genius or a disaster? How chefs feel about calorie-reduction plans
In the battle against obesity, UK eateries have been asked to cut the calories in their dishes by 20% by 2024. Is this a good idea – or will it ruin our favourite restaurant meals?L ast March, Public...
View ArticleWave reviews: Under – Norway's new underwater restaurant
A semi-submerged restaurant in Lindesnes on the coast of southern Norway offers diners a sustainable menu and a window onto the seabedContinue reading...
View ArticleGiraffe and Ed's Easy Diner owner to shut a third of its restaurants
Creditors approve rescue deal that will close 27 UK sites and put 340 jobs at riskThe owner of Giraffe and Ed’s Easy Diner is to close a third of its restaurants, putting 340 jobs at risk, after...
View ArticleThe Feathered Nest, Oxfordshire: 'Faultless, but can I leave now?’ –...
Perfect produce, great flavours … so why the glum face?En route to The Feathered Nest in Nether Westcote, Oxfordshire, I remembered that the cool thing to say about the Cotswolds is that they are...
View ArticleAngelina: ‘Curious and thoughtful’ – restaurant review
A marriage of Italian and Japanese cuisine could so easily be a disaster, but here it is a happy unionAngelina, 56 Dalston Lane, London E8 3AH (020 7241 1851). Five-course set menu £38; daily plate £9;...
View ArticlePackets of hot sauce save two people's lives in one month
Man in Oregon trapped in his car for five days ate hot sauce, and moments after a Taco Bell customer got up from his seat to retrieve some hot sauce, a car burst through the restaurant’s wallDon’t...
View ArticlePeg, London E9: ‘Dainty plates with an oomph of flavour’ – restaurant review...
A sort-of-Japanese restaurant, from the team behind P Franco and Bright, that seems guaranteed to spawn copycats very soonThe restaurant Legs has closed and been replaced by another called Peg. Anyone...
View Article#BetterthanChickfilA: what to eat when you crave both chicken and equal rights
News that the chain is still donating money to anti-LGBTQ organizations is disappointing – but it’s also an opportunity“We’re living in an age where we are questioning everything,” says cookbook author...
View ArticleEartH Kitchen, London: ‘A hugely cheering meal’ – restaurant review
The restaurant of an events venue proves that great modern British cooking is as good as any showEartH Kitchen, 11-1 7 Stoke Newington Road, London N16 8BH (020 3873 2345). Starters £5-£6.50. Mains...
View ArticleMichelin-starred chef Massimo Bottura to open community restaurant for...
Partnership with OzHarvest marks the fifth such refettorioventure for the Italian chefOne of the world’s top chefs will open a community restaurant for homeless people in Sydney with the help of food...
View ArticleSabai Sabai, Birmingham: ‘It's for fans of M People’ – restaurant review |...
This slightly gauche attempt at modern Thai dining may not live too long in the memorySome lunches are literally, not figuratively, forgettable. Before I could deliver this sparkling prose on Sabai...
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