Bernardi’s, London W1, and Canto Corvino, London E1: ‘Both of these restaurants are properly grown-up’

‘Burrata and anchovies on toast is the rudest thing done to purity since Michael Hutchence seduced Kylie’

Restaurants come in collective waves, attuned by some kind of sonic whistle the rest of us are unable to hear. Embers of modern Thai, shrugs of bistro French, belches of burgers and now, all of a sudden, a gesticulation of chic Italians.

Here’s Bernardi’s, run by brothers Gabriel and Marcello, originally from Australia. This elegant, two-floor spot appears to owe a debt to the patron saint of contemporary UK Italian restaurants, Angela Hartnett. Not only is its “consultant operations director” ex-Cafe Murano (the savvy Zoe Charlton-Brown), but there’s a look of Hartnett’s empire about the place, too: the understated cashmere colours, marble tabletops, glittering bar, the hum of contented, moneyed punters. And the short, presumably regularly changing menu.