The Hotel Portmeirion: ‘It’s the living definition of trying too hard’ – restaurant review | Marina o’Loughlin

This isn’t food to revel in, it’s food designed for a breathy, titillated voiceover on mainstream television

My first visit to Wales for these pages was such a blast that a press release arrives at an opportune moment. The Hotel at Portmeirion has kicked up its culinary offering a few notches with an ambitious tasting menu using the finest local produce. I’m keen to see what an ex-La Bécasse chef can do. But more than anything, I’m keen to see Portmeirion.

This candy-coloured village on the Snowdonia coast in north Wales is the folly to end all follies. Built by architect Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1976, his “home for fallen buildings” became famous during the 1960s as the setting for TV’s cult spy show, The Prisoner. I’m sure it’s rammed with tourists in summer, but in blustery, off-season weather – the brightly painted houses empty and blank-faced, the waters of Afon Dwyryd glittering like mercury in the distance – the little place casts a powerful spell.

Related: El Gato Negro, Manchester: ‘I’m finding it hard to forgive the ham. It’s sacrilege’ – restaurant review