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Guinea Grill, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Serving up perfect steaks for more than 60 years, this Mayfair restaurant has authenticity a hipster would kill for

The Guinea Grill, 30 Bruton Place, London W1 (020 7499 1210). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £160

If the Guinea Grill in Mayfair was a new opening it would be hotter than the cooking range by the dining room door over which they flame their steaks. It would be full of bloggers holding their smart phones high and flat over plates of prime Scottish beef, and lifestyle journalists swooning at the commitment to old-fashioned virtues; to the application of frilly paper collars around steak and kidney pies. It would attract a mixed crowd, in for the night from Peckham and Hackney, giving it a lot of love. Some of that crowd might even possess ovaries.

This is an altar to steak from a time when such a place was a rarity

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