This is drinking food: massive, in-yer-face flavours, with an unabashed and unstinting use of salt and fat
Fun is such an under-rated quality in a restaurant. When I think about where I want to go for dinner when off the clock, it’s not always to the places with the most intricate, ambitious food or the ones with the most eye-popping design. Always and inevitably, I’m drawn back to places where, more than anything else, I had a really good time.
The Laughing Heart’s owner, Charlie Mellor (ex-Brawn and Elliot’s, another couple of crackers) is here to show you the absolute best of times. When I reject his suggestion of an orange natural wine (with the grape skins left on until it’s muscular and frequently overbearing), I worry that this makes me the equivalent of the woman who orders decaff in the spoddy cold-brew coffee specialist.
Related: ’O Ver, London SE1: ‘The star turn? The pizzas’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin
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