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The Holy Birds, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

A hip new chicken joint opens in Shoreditch. How wrong could it go? Let Jay count the ways…

The Holy Birds, 94 Middlesex street, London E1 7EZ (020 3610 0185). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £100

Over the past year London has been overrun by an outbreak – a flock, if you will – of chicken-based restaurants. We’ve had Fancy Funkin Chicken in Brixton and Clockjack in Woolwich, Randy’s Wing Bar in Stratford and Absurd Bird in Shoreditch and many more besides. And why not? Chicken is the David Attenborough of food; it’s hard to hate. Chicken cooked by a restaurant is the homely dinner you can’t be fagged to cook at home.

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