It happily swerves the old bish-bash-bosh, even though it could probably get away with it
Hard as it may be for the fanatical likes of me to believe, not everyone treats dinner as part of the obsessive search for culinary nirvana. Some people – lots of people – just like to get dressed up for a night on the town, where food is probably third on the list of considerations after fun with pals, friendly service and a menu full of crowd-pleasing greatest hits.
Each to their own, of course, but many places designed to fit this undemanding brief rely too heavily on lowest-common-denominator, mass-catering food, not giving a stuff about producers or provenance or seasonality – the stuff that gets us food spods in a froth. Reading the menu at this recent arrival to a corner of Altrincham that, following the rampaging success of the Market House, is rapidly becoming something of a foodie enclave, my expectations plummet into my socks. Here we go: sushi and sashimi nudging up against fish and chips, and steaks “dry aged in our Himalayan salt chamber”.
Related: Popolo, London EC2: ‘I’d go back weekly if I could’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin
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