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The Other Naughty Piglet, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

When Andrew Lloyd Webber chooses a restaurant for his new theatre, it’s going to be good. Weirdly, the wine isn’t, says Jay Rayner

The Other Naughty Piglet, at The Other Palace, 12 Palace Street, London SW1E 5JA (020 7592 0322). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £120

Lined up on the windowsill at the Other Naughty Piglet is a parade of emptied wine bottles. It’s a cute piece of signalling to passing trade on the central London street below. It shouts: “Look up here! Good times are to be had!” Among them, their labels turned brazenly to the room, are a trio of emptied bottles. They are a 1953 Pétrus, a 1959 Haut-Brion and a 1990 La Tâche. Somebody didn’t just have a good time. They had a nose-bleedingly expensive one, too.

If a prospective lover invited you for dinner and cooked fish like this, the deal would be sealed

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