Zobler’s Delicatessen, London: restaurant review

Creating a New York-style Jewish deli in an old bank in London is a big ask, and Zobler’s pulls it off. But where’s the fat?

Zobler’s Delicatessen, The Ned, 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8BP (020 3828 2000). Meal for two, including drinks: £25 to £50

At Zobler’s Deli I got excited about a bowl of chicken matzo ball soup. This is proof of either the soup’s brilliance or my low expectations. In truth, it was both. Zobler’s is located inside the newly opened Ned, the deep-varnished, brass and parqueted hotel in the City of London. It’s a £200m collaboration between club operators The Soho House group and hotel specialists Sydell, and occupies the Lutyens-designed former Midland Bank HQ. I was once a Midland customer. Now my bank is dispensing chicken soup. This is progress.