Where The Light Gets In, Stockport: ‘The most exciting food I’ve eaten in...
Not so much new Nordic as new northern, this is a procession of brilliance Let’s get it out of the way from the get-go: Where The Light Gets In serves the most exciting food I’ve had in years. And it’s...
View ArticleModern tribes: the serial complainer
Yes I am complaining. See, you just have to take control. I don’t care if it’s embarrassing, that’s what they depend on, people being too shy to make a fussIs that fish dry, it looks dry, yuck, just...
View ArticleThe Test Kitchen, London - restaurant review | Jay Rayner
After an exhaustingly grim lunch at the Test Kitchen, Jay flees to Maison Bertaux for a restorative strawberry tartThe Test Kitchen, 54 Frith Street, London W1D 4SL (020 7734 8487). Meal for two,...
View ArticleCheck the loos and snack beforehand: golden rules of restaurant dining
Gordon Ramsay says you should haggle over wine and avoid the specials – but there are better way to guarantee a good mealGordon Ramsay has a new TV show to promote, so he’s effing and blinding and...
View ArticleArbequina, Oxford: ‘It sees me ordering a second bottle at lunch’ –...
Arbequina’s tortilla is perfect: blistered exterior, alluringly sloppy interior, the potatoes collapsing among properly caramelised onionsHow you feel about overt restaurant plagiarism depends very...
View ArticleA recipe for salted chocolate cookies from the kitchen of Miles Kirby | A...
Caravan’s Miles Kirby battles tea-towel towers in pursuit of a clutter-free cooking space ... to make these chocolate butter cookiesWe redid our kitchen about two years ago, when my partner, René, was...
View ArticleZobler’s Delicatessen, London: restaurant review
Creating a New York-style Jewish deli in an old bank in London is a big ask, and Zobler’s pulls it off. But where’s the fat?Zobler’s Delicatessen, The Ned, 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8BP (020 3828 2000)....
View ArticleHavener’s Bar & Grill, Fowey, Cornwall: B&B review
Teething problems over, this south Cornwall restaurant with rooms now offers cosy stays and refined pub grub that rival its riverside setting for the feelgood factorThings didn’t get off to a very good...
View ArticleStoke House, London SW1: ‘You'd have to pitchfork me to get me near the place...
‘Salmon comes as pallid, morose and wanly pink as an unwilling bridesmaid’If, as Dante imagined, Hell is where sins are punished with your own bespoke and exquisite torture, mine might look a lot like...
View ArticleWesterns Laundry, London: restaurant review
The food is excellent at this new Islington seafood house. But the silly fad for ‘natural’ wines will spoil your dinnerWesterns Laundry, 34 Drayton Park, London N5 1PB (020 7700 3700). Meal for two...
View ArticleBrent Savage's vegetarian recipes: salted cucumbers and carrots with quinoa...
The chef of vegetarian bistro Yellow shares three impressive but easy-to-make recipes to celebrate World Meat Free Day For years, Sydney’s Bentley restaurant was the go-to destination for vegan and...
View ArticleBilson Eleven, Glasgow: ‘The arse-clenching pretension of it all’ –...
The pole-up-jacksie staff robotically recite every component of every dish with the animation and charm of a Theresa May interview How dare I? How dare I be critical about a small, new indie...
View ArticleThe Cat’s Pyjamas: restaurant review
Indian street food and craft beer is a great combo in Leeds, and it could be coming to a high street near you soonWhen it comes to the vital business of dinner, we idealise the bespoke. Give us a seat...
View ArticleIn pictures: A Neapolitan dinner, with Rachel Roddy
A southern Italian restaurant, along with Guardian Cook columnist Rachel Roddy, puts on a dinner themed on the books of Elena Ferrante, celebrating the transformative power of books and food in aid of...
View ArticleA Ferrante feast: a night out in support of global literacy
Elena Ferrante’s books evoke Naples in all its drama, and inspired a Neapolitan fundraising feast for Worldreader, in the heart of urban London – testament to the power of food and literature to do...
View ArticleMadame D, London E1: ‘Consider every fibre of my palate fully stimulated’ –...
It’s not often I come out of a restaurant and immediately want to go back to eat the rest of the shortish menu. Possibly all by myself You could be forgiven for suspecting Madame D to be a concept in...
View ArticleNoble: restaurant review
There’s an art to not showing off, and when your food is this good, you don’t need to shout about it. Jay Rayner heads to Noble, just outside BelfastNoble, 27a Church Road, Holywood, County Down BT18...
View ArticleDC institution Ben's Chili Bowl repaints famous mural – without Bill Cosby
At a Washington eatery that sits at the heart of the black culture and history it celebrates, the entertainer’s fall from grace poses painful questionsPeople stopped, stared and posed for photos. A...
View ArticleLupins, London SE1: ‘This is a find’ – restaurant review
The chocolate mousse is an outrageous creation, the sort of thing that should only be eaten behind closed doorsSpring onions dredged in cornmeal and fried until the green spears are pleasingly...
View ArticleToulouse city guide: what to see plus the best bars, restaurants and hotels
In France’s sunny ‘pink city’, ancient palaces show world-class art and crowds sip pastis and eat cassoulet and top-notch tapas at lively food markets Ask French people where they would prefer to live...
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