The Cat’s Pyjamas: restaurant review

Indian street food and craft beer is a great combo in Leeds, and it could be coming to a high street near you soon

When it comes to the vital business of dinner, we idealise the bespoke. Give us a seat in a 12-cover restaurant, with a kitchen so small there’s only space for the venerated head chef and someone to do their washing-up, and we’re happy. We want that cook’s hands to touch the ingredients we eat. We do not want to be part of some huge mass that merely needs servicing. In the matter of our appetites we are all of us solipsists.

Sea bream is slicked with lemongrass and chilli, with ginger and lime bashed into its slashed skin