Home, Leeds: ‘One holds food this ambitious to a higher standard’ – restaurant review | Rhik Samadder

I’m in Leeds, I wail, I want something hot

Can any restaurant called Home be good enough? When I go home – I mean primal, family home-home – there’s a way of doing things. It includes watching Frasier in my underpants, a critical inspection of the boiler and addressing my mother like a room service attendant. You will have your own ceremonies. But unless they include a seasonal tasting menu with wine flight (in which case, salut!), surely none of us can be truly accommodated? Let’s see.

Behind a discreet door on Kirkgate, Leeds’ oldest street, stone steps wind up to a grey-walled bar with parquet floor, 70s pastiche furniture and nana plates on the walls. It could be a home but looks more like a shoot in Wallpaper* magazine. My companion A, a south London rudegirl somehow turned CEO, captures its slightly precious chic: “It’s the lounge of a rich, fortysomething man who works in the creative industries and doesn’t want his girlfriend to move in.”

Related: Temper City, London EC2: ‘There’s so much going on here, you don’t know where you are’ – restaurant review | Rhik Samadder

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