The Kitchen, Inverness: 'A place that really looks after you' – restaurant review

After a miserable lunch at Boath House, Jay is relieved to find himself at the Kitchen in Inverness

The Kitchen, 15 Huntly Street, Inverness IV3 5PR (01463 259119). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £80

A few weeks ago Boath House, a handsome grey stone hotel and restaurant 20 miles outside Inverness, announced it was abandoning the six-course tasting menu which had helped it keep a Michelin star for a decade. Maintaining the aesthetic demanded by the tyre company was just too expensive. Apparently, we don’t want tiny saucers of tweezered disappointment. We want informality. Quite so. This came on the back of news that the legendary French restaurant Bras, which had held three stars for 30 years, was also removing itself from Michelin.

The fudge cheesecake is made by the restaurant’s general manager. As we’re leaving we thank her for it and she blushes