Gul & Sepoy: 'Not as clever as it thinks it is’ – restaurant review

Harneet and Devina Baweja’s first two places were rapturously received, and their reviews have all been good. Until now

Gul and Sepoy, 65 Commercial Street, London E1 6BD (020 7247 1407). Meal for two, including alcohol, £120

Sometimes it just doesn’t matter how good individual dishes are. It doesn’t matter if there are things that sounded the trumpets and made the angels sing. If, at the end of the meal you feel baffled or let down or short changed – or worse than that, all three – you know you won’t be back. So it is with Gul & Sepoy, a new, modish restaurant in London’s Spitalfields, offering a clever menu of dishes from the Indian subcontinent which isn’t quite as clever as it thinks it is.

A whole sea bream slapped around with a chilli paste then roasted in the tandoor is the best dish