What a relief to find a reasonably priced, knockout neighbourhood Italian in London’s West End
Bancone is the sort of new opening that critics face with a heavy heart. It is a long, pale room, with a counter and some booths, serving mainly pasta. Some antipasti, yes, but mainly ravioli and tagliolini. That’s the concept – as in, there isn’t one.
It is so much easier to splash words on restaurant-land’s gimmicks and frippery; on robot waiters or in-restaurant car lifts. Or on menus strewn with cool, puzzling things like sandos, bottarga, furikake fries or shrimp ranhofer.
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