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Stem, London: ‘We are fed delightfully’ – restaurant review

This is precisely cooked food in a smart location at a fair price. It restores your faith in humanity

Stem, 5 Princes Street, London W1B 2LF (020 7629 9283). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £100

All you ever want to know is that everything’s going to be OK. You want to know that deciding to spend your money in a particular restaurant is not a gross, humiliating error of judgment. It could be the flashing white teeth of an engaged welcome that reassures you. Perhaps it’s the immediate offer of a drink, rather than treatment designed to inflame abandonment issues. It could be the writing of the menu, which suggests a kitchen with good taste and a modicum of basic literacy. A misplaced apostrophe can put me right off my roasted beetroot’s.

I now trust this kitchen completely. They can do to me and with me as they wish

Toasted sourdough is cheese on toast as imagined by the Borgias after they got bored of ​all ​the orgies

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