Tom Brown has left his schooldays far behind and opened his own place. It’s a fish masterclass
Cornerstone, 3 Prince Edward Road, London E9 5LX (020 8986 3922). Dishes £5-£17. Desserts £10. Wines from £35
Great restaurants are rarely born. They are made. They are the accretion of details done right over time. They have to find their feet, and their hands and all the other bits of their metaphorical anatomy. Cornerstone, in east London’s Hackney Wick, does not feel like it went through any of this. It seems to have arrived in the world fully formed, which is all the more remarkable given the weight of expectation upon its shoulders.
A ripe, foamy pillow of cod brandade is piled high with wild mushrooms and in the middle, an egg yolk waiting to run
Pickled oysters are not so much pickled as dressed, as in haute couture, in a bright, fresh, crisp, cooling herb liquor
Continue reading...