The food at this ‘Japanese tapas’ bar in Bristol is worth the detour, but the poky lodgings rather cramp its style
On my way to Woky Ko: Kaiju in Bristol, I pondered why, at some point in recent times, we acquiesced to eating in shipping containers. Stark, stacked, repurposed vessels, often left in previously unloved patches of Croydon, Milton Keynes, York and, obviously, Shoreditch. Rarely beautiful, never comfortable; this is strangely unhospitable hospitality. Visiting the loo often requires a walk elsewhere and the procurement of a secret passcode.
Chefs, however, seem to love shipping containers, because they’re a relatively affordable option in which to set up shop. Plus, they’re recycled. Chefs love talking nobly about sustainability – love it. On and on they chunter, saving the world, one food-scrap falafel at a time.
Related: Nonya , Glasgow: 'The joy ebbed from my soul with each new dish' – restaurant review | Grace Dent
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