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The angry chef or the Michelin guide: which giant ego are you rooting for? | Dale Berning Sawa

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The standoff between Marc Veyrat and the famous guide isn’t about cheddar – it’s about power and who has the last word

Marc Veyrat, a French chef and Bob Dylan lookalike (he’s as famous for his Michelin-starred cooking as he is for his wide-rimmed black hat), has been in the news this week. Or rather, to do him justice, he’s gone full-tilt Gordon Ramsay in the news this week.

In January, the Michelin Guide demoted his Haute-Savoie restaurant, La Maison des Bois in Manigod. He became, as he put it, the only chef in history to get a third star one year – and lose it the very next. And the six months since have been a living hell. A few weeks ago, he texted – texted! – the French weekly Le Point, saying: “Hello, call me back please, it’s urgent.” And when they did, he proceeded to relay, in great, indeed in operatic detail, quite how awful the fallout has been.

Related: 'They said we used cheddar!': chef demands removal from Michelin Guide

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