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With restaurants still shut, it's time to order a takeaway

There’s a wide variety available, from literally gilded to cheap and cheerful

In the depths of lockdown, the arrival of a takeaway can feel like a promising message from a lost world; one where restaurants continue to do what they always did. It’s a sudden spike on the emotional heart monitor. A few weeks ago, I said I wouldn’t talk about such things in this column and I never go back on my word. Except when I do. So many intriguing takeaways have arrived at my house recently that to not mention some of them would be a dereliction of my ludicrous duty.

Mostly they have been taken in a professional capacity. Oh, that we should all have such professions. Just before restaurants closed, I was recording a third series of my podcast Out to Lunch, in which I grill marvellous people to a turn over a marvellous meal: Dita Von Teese at Norma, Charlie Brooker at Chutney Mary and so on. But we have all had to adapt. So now I stay in for lunch and interview marvellous people by video, with a takeaway.

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