A bijou Fulham restaurant with a stylish setting and an imaginative, modern European menu
En route to Fenn in Fulham, I comforted myself that this may, please God, be one of the last restaurants I’ll visit during the alfresco period. We were ever so grateful when outdoor dining restored a semblance of semi-normality, but let’s be very honest, not one sane soul will pine for this season of swamped booking systems and damp bum cheeks.
I’ve accepted 3.45pm dinner bookings to eat under dripping tarpaulin, I’ve wangled my way into limited-menu brunches in repurposed loading bays and I’ve eaten pommes boulangère while dressed like Hagrid, with harsh, unforgiving daylight exposing the map of fine lines on my forehead, which I’d much prefer to hide in a flatteringly lit banquette.
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