Fadiga, London: ‘The pasta is bloody lovely’ – restaurant review

Fadiga, 71 Berwick Street, London W1F 8TB (020 3609 5536). Starters £8-£12, mains £9-£18, desserts £8-£9, wines from £25

I knew there was a point to my ludicrous hair. It’s this review. Because without my midlife crisis expressed through the medium of glossy tresses, I would not have been introduced to Fadiga. It describes itself as a “Ristorante Bolognese”, and occupies a tiny site on Berwick Street in London’s Soho. It’s located right next to where I go to be dealt with by the brilliant Filipe, a man who exudes quiet confidence in the face of great challenges. With immense forbearance he excavates something meaningful from the chaos of my endlessly explosive bouffant.