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Chicken wings are a culinary triumph. So why do chefs want to ruin them? | Emma Brockes

The whole point about this kind of food is that youre not supposed to tart it up

I am pregnant with twins, and so spend a lot of time thinking about chicken wings and the things that go with chicken wings, primarily: corn dogs, jalapeño poppers, breaded mozzarella sticks dragged through marinara sauce. (Celery sticks, not so much). The perfect wing should make you wince without being too vinegary; the sauce plentiful without slopping off the side. And while fiery is the point of the wings very existence, it should neither burn your mouth nor hit the colour chart at Cheeto-orange.

I mention all this because, in our drive to needlessly complicate the simple things in life phones, tap water, walking wings are one of the few staples that have, to date, escaped meddling.

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