This might be the most absurd restaurant in the country. Is Jeff Koons cooking?
I bow to no restaurant fan in my admiration of Mourad Mazouz, aka Momo. In a landscape where nobody takes risks, where the sure-fire route to success is to pinch somebody elses ideas (yes, Paesan and Tomboy Burrito, I am looking at you), he continues to go his own oddball way.
Of his remarkable Sketch, he said when it opened, I could have opened a safe little brasserie like the Ivy. Instead, in this grand, sprawling Georgian town house, he created a multi-venue pleasurama, a sensory overload of challenging artworks, aliens egg loos and extraordinary and curious food. Itll never last, said everyone, clutching their pearls. Yet here we are, nearly 12 years later, and the place as busy as ever.
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