£255 to eat in the Fat Duck? That’s indefensible

Only the wealthy few can afford a meal at Heston Blumenthal’s reopened Bray restaurant – but we’ve got some ideas for how the place might be democratised

After a six-month stint in Australia, Heston Blumenthal’s world-famous restaurant, the Fat Duck, reopens in Bray tomorrow (29 September). Details remain sketchy as to what, after a £2.5m refit, has changed at the new-look Duck, although Blumenthal says the menu – now christened the Journey – will be a story, its dishes chapters with such enigmatic names as “Can I have some money for the ice-cream man?”. A mini mechanical sweet shop, which cost £150,000, will serve part of the dessert course.

So far, so mysterious. But there is one concrete fact we know about this four-hour experience, and that is its price-tag. It will set you back £255 a head (£286.87 with “discretionary” 12.5% service). This is a figure which, and I speak as a fan, is indefensible.