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Plating up: how crockery has become one of the hottest dishes on the menu

Restaurants are splashing out on handmade pottery, with chefs and artists collaborating to match plates to particular meals

Sometimes in a restaurant, when my meal is delivered, I touch the plate, not to check if it’s warm but to feel it and its texture. The desire to serve meals on crockery designed for a particular dish is becoming more popular and the past few years have seen a resurgence and interest in handmade ceramic vessels.

Five years ago, when writing about a restaurant, the crockery would be noticed and perhaps mentioned but now close attention is paid not only to the food but to the potter and designer of the plates.

Related: The secret life of Australia's top chef

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