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Emilia: ‘Some of London’s best Italian food’ – restaurant review

If you are bidding for supper at Emilia in Bonhams, you’ll enjoy a masterpiece – but it’s not cheap

Emilia, Bonhams, 7 Haunch of Venison Yard, London W1K 5ES (020 7468 5868). Antipasti and starters £6-£15; mains £21-£32; desserts £10; wines from £26

After dinner at Emilia, the new restaurant inside the Bond Street headquarters of the auctioneers Bonhams, I went in search of the loo. On the way I found one of the thrilling side benefits of a meal here. An internal window in the broad corridor looked down on to one of their brightly lit galleries, displaying works for a forthcoming show; pieces of art which emerge briefly out of private hands for sale, only to disappear from public view again once the hammer has come down. Here were lilies by David Hockney and butterflies by Damien Hirst. There were works by Banksy and Peter Blake and Roy Lichtenstein. A female nude by the late Tom Wesselmann had about it a distinctly languorous, satisfied, postcoital air.

Someone at Bonhams has extremely good taste

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